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Inspiration Board : Marbleized Tumbler

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One of my favorite parts about developing our new Martha Stewart Glass Paint line was creating fun crafts while exploring new techniques. I had been inspired by Emily, another designer in the craft department, to create stunning marbled effects with our glass paint. Because our paint is dishwasher safe, I thought it would be a great entertaining idea to make marbled glassware, like the one we created here.

The best thing about this craft is that it is very easy and  free-form; you can try it many ways and still achieve beautiful results. Here is a quick tutorial on how to make your own marbleized tumbler.


  • Martha Stewart Crafts Gloss Transparent Texture Paint in Bluebonnet
  • Martha Stewart Crafts Gloss Transparent Texture Paint in Bright Sky
  • Martha Stewart Crafts Gloss Transparent Texture Paint in Meringue
  • Martha Stewart Crafts Gloss Transparent Texture Paint in Crystal Clear
  • Fill Medium (and included empty refillable 2 oz. bottle)
  • Paper cups or bowls for mixing
  • Spoons for mixing
  • Stenciling Tape
  • Glass surface for crafting

Begin by preparing your glass surface by washing it in warm soap and water, then using rubbing alcohol to ensure that all remaining residue is removed. After it is washed and dried, begin by taping off an area 1 inch from the lip of the glass to ensure food-safety.  This will create your paintable area.

A marbleized surface is achieved by allowing paints of different colors to flow together and “marble” on the surface being painted.  To get your paint to a flowing consistency, take a Gloss Transparent Texture paint color of your choice, remove the fine tip top and seal, and squeeze a generous amount into a bowl or paper cup.

Take the fill medium and add a 1:1 proportion of paint to medium into the cup.

Begin to mix the two liquids together, stirring gently to prevent bubbles from being created. Stir until completely mixed and your paint coats your spoon but also pours from it easily. Repeat with all the remaining colors.

After your paint has been mixed, you can either pour it into the empty refillable 2 0z. bottle for ease of application or work with a spoon straight from your mixing vessel in the following steps.

Spoon and mixing bowl technique (left) refillable bottle technique (right)

Using a color of your choice, squeeze from bottle and pour directly onto the surface of the glass in sections of varying sizes, turning glass you work and alternating colors to achieve the desired marbleized effect.

Once your glass is completely coated with paint, continue to rotate the glass to move the paint and allow it to marble naturally.

If you have any bubbles, simply pop them with a needle or pin

Set your wet piece on an elevated surface and allow it to dry for several hours. I like to use the cap of a glass paint bottle to rest my glass. As you can see, the glass looks very opaque when it is wet (left), but will  transform into a transparent effect when completely dry (right). When you glass is completely dry, take an xacto blade and run it along the edge of your tape to release it and along the bottom of your glass to clean up any edges. Here is the completed project:

All of our glass paints have the same curing instructions as our original craft line. And though we mixed a fill medium into the paint to achieve this effect, the curing instructions remain intact. You can either let it air cure for 21 days on its own, or you can oven cure it. When oven curing, make sure your piece is completely dry before setting it in the oven. Be careful to not allow any painted surfaces to be resting or touching anything while in the oven and start with your piece in a cool oven before turning it up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and baking for 30 minutes. Allow your piece to cool completely before handling.

I hope you all fall in love with this technique as much as I have!

 If you have any technical questions regarding the use of our Martha Stewart Craft paints, please direct them to our partners at PLAID! Customer Service: 1-800-842-4197 Mon - Fri. 8am - 5pm EST

Comments (34)

  • Very nice! I'll have to give this a try. This seems like a great way to color co-ordinate your glassware to your dinner or specialty plates.

  • Whoa Whoa Whoa....this is cool beans! I would love to marble my windows...swoon, can you imagine? I was just in the paint isle at Michael's and didn't see this. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough. This looks like fun!

  • Probably a silly question but... Do you mix in fill medium with each color, or only one?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Jessica,
    You mix in fill medium with each color.
    Hope you have fun trying this project!

  • This has proven to be a very difficult process. I've attempted it twice with no success. The transparent effect never materialized. I have to purchase another bottle of fill medium before third attempt. It seems the 1:1 ratio is off. It's much too thick. Much more fill than paint seems to be needed. Has anyone been successful? It's such a beautiful effect that I'm determined to make it work somehow.

  • When listing the supplies you entitled the empty bottle as "included", what did you mean by that? Is the empty bottle included in a kit?
    Also, what exactly is the purpose of using the medium? I ask because doing other projects what would I need the medium for?

    Thanks so much!

  • Oh, a couple of other questions. I see that you are not wearing gloves for this project, is that the rule for all projects using this product? Are there times you should wear gloves?

    What is the best means of disposing the unused product?

    How long can I leave the product in the bottle mixed with medium to be used on another project?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Barbara,
    I'm sorry to hear you are having a lot of difficulty! It is admittedly a bit of a fickle process, and I would love to help you figure this out.
    What kind of paints are you using? the transparent effect should have materialized no matter what, so I'm a bit concerned about that.
    After mixing, the paint should be able to pour off your spoon onto the surface, but shouldn't be too watery. Something like the consistency (I know this is a weird analogy) of ranch dressing.
    Let's keep this conversation going, and let's see what we can do.

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Deb,
    The empty bottle is included with the fill medium. It's so that you can store whatever mixed paints you might have made in with it.
    The medium allows you to change the consistency of your texture paints so that it will flow more easily. It lowers the viscosity of the paint, while retaining all of its original properties.
    Our pains are all water-based so it is safe to go down your sink.
    You can keep the product with the medium in the bottle for several years. If you leave it sitting for awhile, sometimes the heavier elements in the paint will settle towards the bottom so I would recommend rolling your bottle to mix (do not shake it will create air bubbles) before use.
    You do not have to wear gloves while working with our paint or any of our other non-aerosol products. It is safe, water-based, and non-toxic.

  • How do your clean your or what do your clean your brushes of with, after you used the Martha Stewart Opaque Paint?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Chrissie,
    Our paints are water-based and can be washed in your sink with warm water. We also offer a brush cleaner that helps condition your brushes so they will last longer.

  • I am in the process of making hanging votives and used glass glitter paint on the votive candle holders and then made jeweled wire wraps for the purpose of hanging. The wire seems to pull the paint off the glass even though it has been more than 21 days since I painted them. Is there a product I can use to seal the glass to prevent this from happening?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Jackie,
    Yes we sell an aerosol, a gloss enamel spray that you can find in the craft aisle. This might help "finish" or "seal your project to better protect it from the wire.
    I would say as a general rule though, taking a sharp metal object such as wires, blades, screws etc will mar your paint. The only real way to make these things impermeable to those materials is to actually have fired your ceramic piece in a kiln with real glaze. You may have to be careful with your wire wrapping and touch up areas that have been damaged.

  • Hi, I just painted a wine glass using the new gloss opaque glass paints. I painted a bridesmaid on it. Two issues I hope you can help with: 1. The "skin" looks blotchy when held up to a light and not at all smooth otherwise. I applied 3 thin coats using a sable brush. Is there a trick to get good smooth coverage on a detailed face and arms? 2. I baked my practice piece as directed. 8 hours later, I can easily scrape off the paint with my fingernail. Is there a sealer that will increase the durability? Or will the durability increase after a longer time after baking? Thank you so much for your advice!

  • I plan to try this on some old glass I was just going to toss out. :) My question: is the gloss paint the best to use or are any of Martha's glass paints OK?



  • Crafter Comment:

    Any of the glass paints will work with this technique though the Gloss opaque and the Gloss Transparent will give you the best effects.

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Nancy,
    Our paint will still be sensitive when you take a nail or a razor blade to it; paint on smooth surfaces are only durable against those things if they have been fired and glazed in a kiln. That is how most commercial products on glass and ceramic are made. Baking should make our paint permanent for most uses of your project, but I would still avoid when taking hard or sharp objects to it (i.e. never scrub with the rough side of your sponge).

    Our paint has been best formulated for use with the tools we have provided such as stencils and silkscreens, which is why it is so textured and will be a little harder for you to achieve a smooth application.
    We do sell a medium that you might be able to try adding to your paint in very small increments and will help "loosen" the paint a little so you can perhaps spread it more easily with your sable brush. If you would like to try loosening your paint (to see if this gets you the smooth quality you want) before you go to the store and buy the medium, try a couple drops of water. However, if you want your paint to be permanent, you will have to go and purchase the medium because that will ensure that your paint retains its original properties.

  • WOW! Imagine how far a creative mind could take this technique...I'm curious as to whether anyone has used the technique on windows...I've wanted to buy plain opaque or just slightly textured cabinet door inserts, but the cost is prohivitive. I'm hoping this is the next best thing...I'm an artist and want to partially "disquise" a jumble of items in a very large vintage sideboard without completely obscuring everything...

    Thanking you Kindly for any ideas/comments,


  • Once cured/dried, is the glass dishwasher safe or safe lying in dishwater in the sink?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Dina,
    The glass is top-shelf dishwasher safe, but it should not be left lying in dishwater. It will not be able to withstand being soaked in water over an extended period of time.

  • I decided to paint 75 votive candle holders for my wedding! What is the best way to do this? I bought 8 bottles of oasis paint frost!

  • I understand that you place the glass in a cold oven and then heat, but my question is when does the 30 minutes start? From the cold oven or do you bake it at temperature for 30 minutes (start timing when the oven is hot)?

    I'm sorry if that's a stupid question. Thanks for an answer

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Sarah,
    I would count from when your temperature reaches 350. It is okay to be flexible though!

  • could this technique be used to 're-paint" my outdoor gazing ball? Maybe on the insideof the oven heat will be used and the ball is stored inside in winter months?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Almeda,
    Yes this can be used to repaint your outdoor gazing ball, however you should do it on the outside and not inside of the ball (this is because your paint needs to be able to dry properly).

  • Hi Tracy,
    I want to use this paint on ceramic tiles that I will install on an outside cement wall - will the paint hold up on an exterior application like this? Temps here don't usually go outside the 30 - 80 degree range (Northern Calif) but we do get a lot of rain in winter. Or is there a sealant I could use to make it more "weather-proof" for an outdoor application?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Merry,
    Yes our paints will be weather resistant once cured. Once they are cured (in the oven, for more curing instructions check this post), they should be able to withstand rain as long as they are not flat soaking in a ton of water, though I wouldn't recommend placing them in direct contact with the elements! It is still best if it is still in a protected area such as a porch.
    We do not currently offer a sealant that would make it even more "weather-proof" so to speak, though I am sure you could find something that would make things more water proof at on on the market at a hardware store.
    Thank you for your questions, and I hope I've been clear in answering your question. If you need any further assistance, please contact our partners at Plaid (Customer Service: 1-800-842-4197 Mon - Fri. 8am - 5pm EST). They are the true experts and will give you an answer straight-away.
    Good luck!

  • I want to paint Christmas ornaments. Which types of paint should I use? I tried the liquid fill on two of them, one on the inside of the ornament and one on the outside, I'm just waiting for them to dry to see how they turn out. I would prefer to paint the inside of the ornaments but should I use a different type of paint or am I okay sticking with the liquid fill? Thanks!

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Rebecca,
    Unfortunately our liquid fill paints only work on the outside of ornaments. If you would prefer to paint on the inside of ornaments it is best to use our craft paints on the inside, though they will all be opaque finishes.

    I hope that helps~!

  • I see you have fourth paints with one a crystal clear, but see you only using three colors. Im a little confused. And what is the crystal clear for when these are all transparent? Did you used it as well? Does it give it an iiridescent effect?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Sonja,
    The Crystal clear is white while wet. But once it is dry, it is "crystal clear;" basically as sheer as glass and has no color at all. This adds to the clear parts in the overall effect, though I know it is hard to see in the pictures. It does not have an iridescent effect.
    You do not need to use it to achieve this affect. It was just a personal choice. Hope that helps!

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Sonja,
    The Crystal clear is white while wet. But once it is dry, it is "crystal clear;" basically as sheer as glass and has no color at all. This adds to the clear parts in the overall effect, though I know it is hard to see in the pictures. It does not have an iridescent effect.
    You do not need to use it to achieve this affect. It was just a personal choice.

  • What a great tutorial! Thank you, Tracy. Here's my question: How would it look if I used Martha Stewart Crafts Multi-Surface High Gloss Acrylic Glass Paint instead of the Gloss Transparent Texture Paint you used?

  • Crafter Comment:

    Hi Carol,
    I think it would look great! I've never tried this before (so we do not currently sell a medium in the craft aisle, liquid fill medium found in the glass aisle) but if you use our Spray medium that's included in the spray kit, I think you would get the same effect, but opaque!

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